Understanding the Curly Girl Method
The Curly Girl Method (CGM) has revolutionised the way many people care for their curly hair.
Developed by Lorraine Massey, the method is outlined in her book Curly Girl: The Handbook and is aimed at promoting the health and definition of curly and wavy hair.
If you’re considering embarking on this journey, here’s a detailed guide to understanding what the Curly Girl Method (CGM) is and how to get started.
What is the curly girl method?
The Curly Girl Method is a hair care approach designed to minimise damage and enhance the natural pattern of curly and wavy hair. The core philosophy of CGM is to avoid tools and products that can be harmful to curls and to adopt techniques that maintain moisture and promote curl definition.
Key principles of the curly girl method
1. No sulphates or silicones: Sulphates are harsh detergents found in many shampoos that can strip natural oils from your hair, leading to dryness and frizz. Silicones, on the other hand, are synthetic ingredients used in conditioners and styling products to make hair smooth and shiny. However, they can build up on the hair, requiring sulphates to remove them – thus creating a cycle that can damage curls over time. CGM advocates the use of sulphate-free cleansers and silicone-free conditioners and stylers.
2. No heat styling: High heat from tools like straighteners, curling irons, and even harsh blow-drying techniques can cause irreversible damage to curly hair. CGM encourages air drying or using a diffuser on a low heat setting if necessary.
3. No harsh chemicals or brushes: Chemical treatments such as relaxers and harsh hair brushes can disrupt curl patterns and lead to breakage. CGM promotes gentle handling of the hair using wide-tooth combs or finger detangling only.
Getting started with the curly girl method
Step 1: Clean the slate
Before you begin your CGM journey, it’s important to remove any existing silicones and build-up from your hair. Use a clarifying shampoo like the Crown Curly Shampoo. This will remove unwanted residues without adding new ones.
Step 2: Choose the right products
Invest in curly-friendly products. Look for a sulphate-free cleanser like the Clever Curl Cleanser, a silicone-free conditioner like Clever Curl's Treatment, and CGM-approved gel like these ones. Product choice can vary based on individual hair porosity and thickness, so you may need to experiment to find what works best for you.
Step 3: Condition, condition, condition
Conditioning is vital in CGM. Apply a generous amount of silicone-free conditioner to wet hair and use your fingers or a wide-tooth comb to detangle. This not only hydrates but also helps in forming and defining curls.
Step 4: Style and dry
After rinsing out the conditioner, apply a styling product such as this curl cream to help define and hold curls. Scrunch your hair upwards towards the scalp to encourage curl formation. Either air dry or use a hair dryer with a diffuser on a low heat setting.
Step 5: Maintain and refresh
Between washes, keep your curls hydrated and refreshed with a spray bottle of water. Pineapple your hair or use a satin bonnet overnight to protect your curls while sleeping.
Tips for success
• Be patient: Transitioning to the Curly Girl Method can take time, especially if your hair has damage or has been chemically treated in the past. It may take several weeks or even months for your curls to adjust and truly thrive. When I first started, I was coming off the back of multiple Keratin treatments and large sections of my hair refused to curl at all.
• Customise your routine: The general guidelines of CGM are just that – general. Every curly head is unique, and you might find that certain adjustments to the standard method work better for you.
• Document your journey: Keeping a hair diary or taking photos can be helpful in tracking what works and what doesn’t, helping you to refine your routine over time.
Embracing the Curly Girl Method can be a rewarding journey towards healthier, more beautiful curls. While it might seem daunting at first, the results of dedicated care and natural styling are worth it. With the right approach and a bit of patience, you can unlock the full potential of your natural hair.
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